Domaine Eric Forest

From one of the highest-altitude plots in the region come a riveting, fresh Burgundian Chardonnay with grace and amplitude in equal measure. Waves of citrus fruit mix with a white peachy intensity that is just too good.

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A unique, south-facing vineyard in which a majority of vines are 100 years old or older, ‘Le Clos des Charmes’ is more than charming; it’s a piece of both Vergisson history and Forest family lore. As a monopole (a vineyard owned by just one tenant), ‘Le Clos’ holds a special place in Forest’s portfolio. A rich, vibrant and textured white Burgundy wine.

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The “black earth” of ‘Terre Noire’ is a thin layer of dark clay that hides terroir treasure underneath: the pure, fossil-rich limestone “mother rock” of Vergisson. These poor, mineral soils make a vine work hard for its nutrients, resulting in bunches with very small berries, which gives a wine of incredible concentration and depth. Here too 100-year-old vines enjoy a full southern exposure, at altitude.

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Exceptionally in the 2021 vintage, winemaker Eric Forest combined fruit from his two Saint-Véran plots, ‘Terre Noire’ and ‘La Renommée,’ for this special wine. (Yields were so low that crafting separate cuvees was not practical.) Here we have the best of both worlds, the cool, mineral energy of ‘Terre Noire’ and the sunny texture and volume of ‘Renommée,’ a steeply graded plot that’s a natural extension of ‘Les Crays’ in Pouilly-Fuissé. 

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A special selection crafted only in the best vintages, ’24 Carats’ is truly a golden wine, with a dazzle and a luxuriousness that is more than worth its weight. Winemaker Eric Forest selects the most expressive barrels of wine from both Pouilly-Fuissé ‘La Roche’ and Pouilly-Fuissé ‘Les Crays’ for this delightful blend. 

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The “soul” of Forest is a blend of four different vineyards, some of the estate’s coolest terroirs, facing east and north. The vineyard ‘La Cote,’ Forest says, gives the wine its ample structure and spiced character; ‘Tilliers’ and ‘Le Bois Rosier,’ with their clay-limestone soils, offer finesse and notes of citrus and stone fruits. The very old vines of ‘Carmentrants’ deliver depth and richness to this very soulful white Burgundy. Three generations in succession (Eric, his father and his grandfather) have tilled these soils and harvested Chardonnay grapes from these family plots.

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Certainly the most treasured vineyard in Pouilly-Fuissé, ‘La Roche’ as of the 2020 vintage was raised to premier cru status. Yet the very tip-top of this plot, its highest point in altitude (about five hectares’ worth) was excluded, as authorities thought it was just too high to craft a quality wine. No surprise that winemaker Eric Forest disagrees, and the proof is in this expressive bottle from the “haut” of ‘La Roche.’ Nervous, energetic citrus fruit combines with a plush intensity on the palate that jumps over premier cru quality and goes straight for grand cru. 

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The legend of ‘Les Crays’ hardly needs to be reintroduced; one of Pouilly-Fuissé’s most noble terroirs (and raised to premier cru status as of the 2020 vintage), ‘Les Crays’ faces full south on the “rock” of Vergisson, on decomposed limestone soils. ‘Les Crays’ at its best is both rich and refined at once, with bracing acidity and succulent white fruit. It’s a treasure for the cellar and will outpace many a Cote d’Or bottle without breaking a sweat.

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A very special, very limited release of Petite Arvine, a native grape to the Valais in Switzerland and a pet project (and labor of love) for winemaker Eric Forest. Eric’s family used to vacation in the Valais, where his father would collect and bring home many bottles of the region’s expressive wines — and Eric quickly was enchanted with their unique flavors. Not so many years ago, Eric met a local grower from the village of Fully who tends a small parcel of massal selection Petite Arvine vines organically; and a partnership was made. Grapes are grown and harvested and then vinified in underground caves in Fully, in barrels that used to hold Eric’s Pouilly-Fuissé ‘Les Crays’ wines, and which he brings to Fully himself. Here the high-altitude vibrancy of the Valais’ native flavors meets the broad, supple texture of white Burgundy from the Mâconnais! A delicate wine in its aromas, very expressive in its flavors of citrus marmalade, cardamom and wild mountain herbs. 

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A spectacular and special wine inspired by the extraordinary conditions of the 2018 vintage. Winemaker Eric Forest selected fruit from his oldest vines in ‘Les Crays’ to hang on the vine three extra weeks after the harvest; cool winds allowed the grapes to dry a bit, concentrating sugars and flavors. Aged one year in 60% new French oak barrels and then another year in terracotta amphora (then another two-plus years in bottle), ‘L’Optimum’ is a succulent treasure, a heady white Burgundy with stunning concentration in aroma and flavor. Very rare!

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