Domaine Olivier Morin

Chitry-le-Fort | Burgundy

The petite town of Chitry is starting to make waves among the sommelier and restaurant set, as a source of top-notch Burgundian Chardonnay and Pinot Noir — and the name on everyone’s lips is Olivier Morin.

Since 1992, when he left a life in the music industry to take over the family domaine, essentially trading in his turntables for a tractor, Olivier has never looked back.

Crucially, the vineyards of Chitry (she-TREE) share exactly the same chalky, Kimmeridgian soils as Chablis. Yet unlike with many laisser-faire Chablis producers, Olivier and his wife, Nelly, are detailed and diligent, caring for their older vines organically, as well as fermenting on indigenous yeasts and adding but homeopathic doses of sulfur at bottling.

These are wines that transcend this modest appellation with their resonant flavors and stunning complexity, and what’s more, offer outstanding value.

FARMING & WINEMAKING

Olivier Morin tends some 30 acres of land in the department of the Yonne, between Auxerre and Chablis. The medieval village of Chitry-le-Fort is the center of the small Bourgogne Chitry appellation, and just a stone’s throw from the village of Chablis. Indeed, here the soils are also identical to those in Chablis—Kimmeridgian and Portlandian limestone, very chalky and mineral-rich.

The estate is not certified but adheres to organic farming practices, including fermenting on indigenous yeasts, planting natural herbs between vineyard rows to prevent erosion and using only organic fertilizer in the fields. The soil is plowed to encourage vine roots to dig deep into the region’s chalky soils; vines, on average, are 30 years old.

Olivier’s cellar is located partially underground, allowing him to move juice and wine via gravity. Whites are fermented and aged in stainless steel tank; reds are aged mostly in older French oak barrels. Very little sulfur is added at any step in the winemaking process, and wines are bottled unfiltered.

WHITE WINES

Bourgogne Aligoté

Pure white wine pleasure. Olivier’s Aligoté is a cut above; bright apple and citrus, crushed stones, sea salt, so much thirst-quenching energy. A must-have for summer.

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Bourgogne Chitry Blanc 'Constance'

A gorgeous white with vim and verve, cut from the cloth of Chablis but pushes even further, with a purity and silky texture that reminds of Chassagne-Montrachet. Irresistible!

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Bourgogne Chitry Blanc 'Olympe'

A special selection of older-vine Chardonnay fruit from south- and southwest facing slopes in Chitry, on soils that could easily be mistaken as grand cru Chablis terroir. ‘Olympe’ is truly Olympian, in its bold aromas and tantalizing textures, impressive length and intensity. Try it blind alongside your favorite Cote d’Or white Burgundy and be astounded.

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RED WINES

Bourgogne Pinot Noir 'Coquette'

Aromas that tease, flavors that seduce — that could be great Burgundian Pinot Noir on any day, but when ‘Coquette’ comes to town, all defenses are useless and another glass is a must. This fresh, fruity and endlessly pleasing Pinot Noir from the chalky hills around Chitry is irresistible. Heady aromas of red fruits and spice, waves of silky goodness. Winemaker Olivier Morin ages this beauty in older demi-muid within a solera system, in which he has choice samples of recent vintages; the addition of which gives this delightful (and value) Pinot Noir a touch more aromatic complexity and intensity.

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Bourgogne Chitry Rouge 'Constance'

Pure Pinot Noir with spice and silk, light on the tongue yet deeply flavored, with notes of red plums, cherries, pomegranate. Olivier Morin’s vines are older, between 30 and 50 years old, enjoying a hillside, southern exposure for fruit that is both ripe and balanced.

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Irancy

The appellation of Irancy (not far from winemaker Olivier Morin’s home village of Chitry) is one of France’s most northerly red wine regions. Here choice, south-facing hillside vineyards enjoy chalky Kimmeridgian terroir just like in neighboring Chablis; Pinot Noir here is steely, vibrant, wonderfully energetic. Aged in older barrels.