Domaine Vernay
Condrieu | Rhône Valley
The wines of Domaine Vernay are the true representative of the soul of Condrieu, bottles that tell a complete and engaging story of this fabled appellation: its beginnings, its rebirth and its triumph as the ultimate expression of the northern Rhone’s native white grape, Viognier.
Founded in the late 1930s, this family-led estate claims as its crown jewel the steeply graded, granite slopes of the ‘Coteau de Vernon,’ home of some of the appellation’s oldest vines and the beating heart of the Vernay estate. It was here where founder Francis Vernay planted his first vines and produced the very first ‘Coteaux de Vernon’ in 1940. His son, Georges, has long been held as the “savior” of Condrieu, a passionate grower who through the northern Rhone’s challenging decades fought tirelessly to protect and preserve Condrieu and its treasures. It is thanks to Georges that this appellation still exists today!
Georges’ daughter, Christine, took the reins of the estate in 1996, as its third generation and modern visionary. She quickly established herself as one of France’s leading female winemakers and pioneered the estate’s production of red wines from choice parcels in Cote Rotie. Now with more than a quarter-century of experience behind her, Christine has welcomed her daughter, Emma, into the fields and cellar.
This dynamic mother-daughter duo today tends some 60 acres of land, a good 40 acres of which are found on the steepest of slopes in the region — and all vineyards are tended with the utmost diligence and care. The estate has always worked according to organic principles; it was certified in 2020, and is currently in the process of biodynamic certification.
FARMING & WINEMAKING
Domaine Vernay claims some 60 acres of land, a good 40 acres of which are on the “coteaux” or the steepest slopes in the region, covering Condrieu, Côte-Rôtie and some land in Saint-Joseph. In Condrieu particularly the ‘Coteau de Vernon’ represents the estate’s most important vineyard, a south-facing slope that reaches from near the Rhone river’s edge to its highest point, with winding, stone-supported terraces that demand that all work is done by hand. This extensive vineyard today claims some of Condrieu’s oldest vines and is unquestionably the appellation’s reference point for the most expressive and terroir-driven Viognier wines.
The estate tends all its vineyards according to organic principles, and is certified; it is also in process of obtaining its biodynamic certification. Sustainability is of the utmost importance to the family, and they have put forward many impressive projects to live sustainability on a daily basis at the estate. Efforts to increase biodiversity in the fields include the planting of ancient varieties of fruit trees as well as encouraging the wild growth of native herbs not just in the vineyards themselves but also around the stone terraces — these fields, Christine says, have become a “veritable refuge” for native animals and insects.
The guiding principles in both the fields and the cellar here are taking the utmost of care, and paying attention to every single detail. Vinification is thus always done parcel by parcel, according to organic and biodynamic practices. Grapes are of course harvested by hand in small crates, brought down laboriously from these incredible slopes. White grapes are pressed full cluster, with juice fermented on indigenous yeasts. (Reds may use some whole-cluster fruit in vinification, but is mostly destemmed.) Wines are aged in a combination of oak barrel or cask, depending on the wine and the vintage. Wine are bottled according to the lunar calendar.
WHITE WINES
Condrieu 'Terrasses de l’Empire'
‘Terraces’ is Viognier at its most lively and charming, a wine chock-full of stone fruit and almond blossom, a silky draught of sunlight from springtime on the hills of Condrieu. The perfect aperitif with a local goat’s cheese or grilled spring vegetables.
Condrieu 'Chaillées de l’Enfer'
A dazzling Viognier with endless charm and forward fruit, a wine that puts the ripe, succulent character of great Viogner on full display. A “chaillet” is the flat vineyard space between stone walls/supports; the Enfer or “hell” tells the story of how tough it is to work these postage-stamp plots at the highest of altitudes. Potent and pretty, ‘Chaillées’ is both delectable while young yet has plenty of aging potential.
Condrieu 'Coteau de Vernon'
‘Coteau de Vernon’ is not just the summit of Condrieu but the grand sum of all that makes this small yet striking appellation extraordinary. Rising from the banks of the Rhone into the clouds, these stone-supported terraces wind and weave up dizzingly steep slopes with vines that are ancient, producing just a handful of bunches each vintage. ‘Coteau de Vernon’ is a pure Viognier wine with incredible length and a breathtaking finesse, a grand example of the bold beauty and longevity of the best of Condrieu.
RED WINES
Côte Rôtie ‘Blonde du Seigneur’
An enchanting Côte Rôtie that captures the high-altitude energy and stony character of the best of the north. Syrah with a 5% touch of Viogner, this ‘Blonde’ indeed references the “Côte Blonde” style of Côte Rôtie, with more aromatic intensity and elegant, silky texture. Tannins are fine-granted and supple.
Established: 1937
Winemaker: Christine Vernay
Region: France • Rhône Valley • Condrieu
Vineyard size: 60 acres
CERTIFIED ORGANIC
